If you know ONE THING about me, it’s that I love anything sweet. Dessert is my life - it’s a long-running joke among my family and friends that I am a total sugar fiend. If there is a vegan dessert anywhere near me, you can bet I’ve tried it and have an opinion (usually very positive) on it.
Funny story: when I first went vegan, I didn’t know that vegan desserts were…a thing. I knew that vegan cake existed in the US, but I imagined the US to be this promised land of veganism, with Europe falling far behind when it came to sweet treats. I figured that I would just have to learn how to bake. Well, at the very beginning of my vegan transition, I had just moved to London…and during my first week there, I came across the Ruby's of London vegan cupcake stall at a market. Safe to say I was in heaven - but also, it’s quite an indication of how dedicated I was to my vegan ethos. I was ready to give up the things I loved the most! Seven years later, Ruby’s catered my book release party in London, in a beautiful full-circle moment.
Since then, things have transformed: vegan desserts are on every corner, at least here in the south of England where I live. And it’s not your standard granola bars, either. From huge, sugar-covered donuts and maple syrup-soaked pancakes to delectable cinnamon buns and fudge-oozing chocolate cakes, my dentist sure is making a fortune these days. But one thing has evaded the world of vegan sweets until now: eclairs.
Notoriously difficult to veganise, this French pastry is the Holy Grail of plant-based desserts. The pastry chefs who manage to make eclairs correctly are few and far between, and it is with extreme sadness that I recall the day when I fell prey to a sign saying “eclair!” at a vegan festival, only to find in my hand a hot-dog bun with vegan whipped cream on it (I am not kidding you), which had cost me £4 that could have been spent on a brownie. Luckily, a hungry friend was nearby and I was able to unload the unlucky dessert on him (that’s right, I passed up a dessert. That’s how bad it was).
So, when I heard that Cream Dream patisserie in London was offering eclairs, I was interested but wary. Surely, I thought, these people will not have managed to master the un-masterable.
Located a four-minute walk from Charing Cross Station, Cream Dream is an Instagrammer’s paradise. Its pink and gold interiors, awash with luscious flowers and greenery, is not only inviting but also extremely photogenic. The place is dog-friendly, entirely vegan and gluten-free, and uses no refined sugar in its creations.
But that is not the most special thing about Cream Dream. You see, one thing you notice across the shop is their unwavering support for the people of Ukraine. From a big, illuminated map of the country on the wall to pro-Ukraine stickers - this is no coincidence. This café is run by Ukrainian refugees, some of whom have not been in the UK longer than a few months, which is indicated on signs excusing their English (which, for the record, is flawless). The founder herself, Yelyzaveta Tataryna, is also a refugee from Ukraine. Her plan was to launch the patisserie in her hometown of Kyiv - but following the Russian invasion, she was forced to flee. In an admirable feat, Yelyzaveta didn’t give up on her dream patisserie shop, bringing that dream to London with her. Behind the dreamy pink exterior lies a true testament to human strength and resilience, and the staff’s passion for their creations but also support for their homeland, is evident in everything they do, down to the amazingly beautiful, flowering Ukrainian tea the shop offers.
The creations on offer at Cream Dream range from macarons and pistachio tarts to a coffee cake that I simply must try next time and a lemon-shaped dessert that looks so lifelike that my first instinct was “wonder why there is a lemon in the cake display”. Rather than white sugar, these treats are made different kinds of sweeteners such as agave syrup (brown sugar does make an appearance in caramel cakes) and all are fully gluten-free and vegan- and extremely beautiful!
Be warned: this place is not a cheap date. The Carpathian tea is £5 (but you get a large teapot, definitely big enough to share) and cakes go up to £10. But it can be argued that high patisserie isn’t made to be low cost. And as an indulgence it’s 100% worth it.
But let’s get down to the reason why you clicked on this post: ECLAIRS.
I barely got my foot in the door before asking about them, and the staff informed me that it was my lucky day - the pastry chef (the insanely talented Dmitry Kolendzian) was making them that very day. They wouldn’t be ready until later, but would I mind sticking around? My mind was cast back to when I was in Paris and trekked all the way to the iconic VG Patisserie with the hope of an eclair…only to find out they didn’t have any that day. Sure, I ended up having an Opera which was worth the trip! But was I going to let the opportunity to sample a vegan eclair slip through my fingers when I had it? No way.
“We will only have Snickers eclairs today,” says the barista, a bit apologetically, as if she wasn’t casually describing my dream dessert. Heart emojis fly from my eyes.
Sipping on my flowering tea, I throw not-so-discreet glances in the direction of the kitchen every…three to four minutes. And as soon as the gold-covered, nut-topped masterpieces are ready, I fly off towards the till. Seriously, my eagerness is that of a five-year-old. And let me tell you, it is justified.
This is…an eclair, you guys. This is exactly what I remembered an eclair to be like: airy choux pastry filled with light hazelnut cream, topped with a chocolate ganache and whole hazelnuts. I tried my best to make it last for as long as possible, but the truth is I wolf it down in minutes. A total, absolute delight, and a total triumph for vegan patisserie, proving once again that doing the impossible…is possible!
This should be more than enough to squash any myths about needing eggs to bake. So many skilled vegan bakers and pastry chefs have told me that eggs are unnecessary and don’t even always need to be replaced with anything. In this case, it’s evident that vegan desserts can be every bit as tasty as non-vegan counterparts, if not more so. Add to that the fact that Cream Dream’s range is gluten-free, and you’ve got a truly inclusive offering that’ll have anyone coming back for seconds.
Well done, patisserie wizards. You will see more of me (and when you do, hide the eclairs if you want your other customers to have a chance).
Where to find Cream Dream: 46 Bedford Street, WC2E 9HA